Friday, November 30, 2007

Thursday, November 29, 2007

Reprint and Fragrance Education: Incense

Aroma Home Decor: An Incense Sense of Style

By Jemetha Clark

On a trip to Dubai I had the opportunity to visit the spectacular Burj Al Arab hotel, a luxuriously modern and decadent retreat for the rich and famous, often touted as the world’s finest hotel. With its unique sail-shape architecture cutting a stunning profile against a backdrop of deep blue sea, it has become the signature of cosmopolitan Dubai. The lobby greeted me with dazzling bold colors, vivid gold accents, a cascading fountain, and a stunning floor to ceiling aquarium. But, what initially captivated me, and remains etched in my memory, was the memorizing aroma of frankincense. It was an ethereal waft of incense smoke that spun through the revolving door and transported me inside the hotel.

In the growing world of home fragrances we are frequently confronted with new and innovative products – better plug-ins, the next generation in candles, fragrant cleaning supplies – and we overlook the original source of aromatic appreciation: incense. Incense is fragrance in its oldest and purest form. Some thousands of years ago man learned that adding certain woods, resins, herbs, and spices to fire created a pleasing aroma and from there the appreciation grew. Coveted ingredients became common offerings in spiritual practice. Today, incense is still associated with worship throughout the world but you do not have to be in touch with your inner Buddha to become a connoisseur. Evolution has brought us various forms of incense, from traditional to contemporary fragrances, which are well suited to personal use. Burning incense can add a uniquely rich and warm aromatic atmosphere to your home. Experiment with the different styles and forms to find one that you enjoy.

Incense Forms & Use

The most common form of incense sold today is in the form of sticks, either with a bamboo rod in the center or in the form of joss sticks, spaghetti-shaped sticks of pure incense material. Joss sticks are generally of better quality and tend to burn with less smoke because they lack the bamboo interior. Stick incense come in various lengths, making them suitable for many uses, inside or outside. A 3” joss stick will burn for about 15 – 20 minutes and can fragrance a standard sized living room. For a larger space or one with high ceilings you can burn several short sticks, use longer sticks, or try coils.

Incense coils are a variation on joss sticks. Since longer joss sticks are fragile and more prone to break the coil shape was developed. Coils vary in size but a two-inch diameter coil will burn for approximately 120 minutes. They are ideal for larger spaces and active spaces, like at a party or an event. Incense coils are also popular for their appearance. Displayed in an attractive holder they make beautiful home accents.

Cones are another well-known form of incense. Like joss sticks and coils, incense cones are made from pure incense material but their sturdy shape makes them the easiest form to pack around with you. A typical incense cone will burn for about ten minutes.

The oldest form of incense is loose incense, blends of raw ingredients that are burned directly over charcoal. Ingredients can include resins, woodchips, spices, herbs, and dried flowers. This form of incense appreciation takes more preparation and requires some experience but can be a very rewarding and creates a dramatic effect. Burning the raw materials causes more smoke so it must be done in a well ventilated space or outside.

A variation on the traditional loose incense is the Japanese methods of soradaki and mon-koh, the latter of which is used in the Japanese incense ceremony. These methods are suitable for warming fragrant wood chips. They involve the use of white ash and charcoal to just warm the wood so it releases its fragrance. Both require some patience and practice but are quite elegant and nice for a small space. If done properly there is virtually no smoke. Or, a simpler alternative is to use a portable wood chip heater that requires no ash, or an electric heater.


Your Choice of Holders

Once you have made a choice about which incense form to use, you can select an appropriate holder. The holder can be a home décor accent in itself or just something simple and functional. They are available in a wide variety of styles and are made from ceramic, porcelain, metal, or wood. The most common shapes are in the form of plates, bowls, or cups, with some variations on those themes.

Incense plates can be used for cones, coils, or sticks. They often come with a built-in holder for sticks or a separate stick holder can be placed on the plate. Coils are best burned on a smaller holder that elevates them off of the plate for better air circulation. A variation on the plate theme is a wheel-shaped holder which has a hole in the center for incense sticks.

Bowls and cups are the most versatile holders for incense burning since they can be used with many forms of incense. Set a cone inside or position a stick or coil holder on the bottom. Or, fill the bowl or cup about ¾ full with white ash and simply put incense sticks in the ash. As the incense burns the ash will just accumulate without needing regular clean up. Bowls and cups are also used in the Japanese incense methods of soradaki and mon-koh.

When burning loose incense keep in mind that resins can melt onto whatever holder you are using and can be difficult to remove. If that is a concern, use a layer of tinfoil to protect your holder.

Use your imagination! You probably have an old flower pot that could be converted to an incense holder. Add some sand and use it like an incense bowl. Just make sure whatever holder you use is heat tolerant. Also, if it gets hot on the bottom use a piece of tile or a trivet to protect the surface underneath.

Whether you chose joss sticks or loose incense, a simple plate or a designer cup, incense will make a wonderful addition to your home. Enjoy the appreciation of home fragrance in its purest form.

Jemetha Clark

http://www.thefifthsense.com


Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jemetha_Clark
http://EzineArticles.com/?Aroma-Home-Decor:-An-Incense-Sense-of-Style&id=238766

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

The List: Creed

After a three week hiatus, "The List" is back! Of course, I have to do something a little different with it; "The List" will celebrate my favorite perfumers. So, this one is about an established luxury perfumer, the eternal Creed. This house was established in 1760 in London by James Henry Creed. It has served more than 11 royal houses and the public for 247 years. It is still popular among today's aristocrats, celebrities and, of course, perfume connoisseurs. You can only find Creed fragrances in the world's most exclusive boutiques, department stores and perfumeries. I present the House of Creed.

For Women

Ambre Cannelle
Chevrefeuille Original
Fantasia de Fleurs
Fleurissimo
Fleurs de Bulgarie
Green Valley
Irisia
Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie
Love In White
Royal Delight
Royal Water
Silver Mountain Water
Spring Flower
Tubereuse Indiana
Vanisia
Virgin Island Water
Zeste Mandarine Pamplemousse

For Men

Acier Aluminium
Ambre Cannelle
Baie de Genièvre
Bois de Cédrat
Bois du Portugal
Chevrefeuille Original
Citrus Bigarrade
Epicea
Erolfa
Green Irish Tweed
Green Valley
Himalaya
Millésime Imperial
Neroli Sauvage
Orange Spice
Original Santal
Original Vetiver
Royal Delight
Royal English Leather
Royal Scottish Lavender
Royal Water
Santal Imperial
Silver Mountain Water
Tabarôme
Vetiver
Virgin Island Water
Zeste Mandarine Pamplemousse


The Private Collection


"Creed’s Private Collection is comprised of fragrances originally created for special clients to wear as their personal scent.

Five such fragrances were created in the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s for Hollywood legends of the time and are now available to the general public. The Private Collection fragrances are housed in traditional perfumers tinted glass flacons with ground glass stoppers, covered in natural hide and sealed with gold thread." -- Creed (www.creedfragrances.co.uk)

Angélique Encens
Aubepine Acacia
Cuir de Russie
Cypres Musc
Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare
Jasmal
Sélection Verte


Where did I get my info?

Creed
Wikipedia article about Creed

Sunday, November 25, 2007

A Video Profile: Coco Chanel and Her House

Reprint and Fragrance Education: Home Fragrances


Selecting Home Fragrances: How to Deconstruct Aromas

By Jemetha Clark

Finding a home fragrance that suits you can be a challenging task. It is often done by trial and error; smelling one thing after another, until your nose protests and your head is spinning. You try shopping online and that poses an entirely different challenge – there is nothing to smell! In either case your shopping experience will be easier if you know more about how fragrances are structured and have an idea what fragrance styles you prefer. These two bits of information will narrow your search and make shopping for home fragrances more fun.

Like the perfumes that we wear, home fragrances (fragrance oils, incense, sprays, candles, etc.) are composed of notes, aromatic impressions left by the different fragrance ingredients. These notes come in three ranges -- top notes, middle notes, and bottom notes – and are mixed to create a balanced fragrance chord. If the chord is in tune it will be heard well by your nose.

Music metaphors are common in the fragrance world. It takes a skilled blender to compose a truly outstanding fragrance. The Japanese incense company Lisn derived its name from “listen” because the Japanese verb for “to listen” is used when referring to incense appreciation. The Japanese verb for “to smell” is used for smelling things in general but “to listen” to a fragrance is to truly understand what it has to say.

Aromatic notes are divided into ranges based on the tenacity of the fragrance, which is
related to their volatility. Top notes evaporate the quickest and bottom notes remain the longest. How these notes are arranged determines how well the composition holds up.

Top notes are the first aromas to reach our nose. They can make a powerful immediate impression and tend to be more sharp and penetrating. Top notes are either hot or cold fragrances, not warm. They add lightness to the weightier middle and bottom notes. Common top notes include orange, lemon, pine, mandarin, cypress, rosemary, nutmeg, mint, and eucalyptus.

Middle notes reach our nose next. They are the warmer notes and create balance in the fragrance. The majority of middle notes are floral fragrances. Common notes include carnation, clove, geranium, jasmine, rose, lemongrass, and violet leaf.

Bottom notes are the deepest and most resonating of the fragrances. They are heavy and rich aromas. Bottom notes are the last to dry out so they will linger the longest. Common notes include sandalwood, amber, vanilla, patchouli, green tea, and black tea.

Not all home fragrances are based on complex aromatic chords. Some are straight forward single scented products or a blend of just two or three complimentary fragrances. These can be just what you need if you have a strong preference for a particular note, especially when it is a light base note or warm middle note. However, when branching out into more complex blends try to think about where your favorite fragrance falls in the range of notes. A lemon top note can easily be overpowered by the heavier middle and base notes, still detectible but not that sharp citrus aroma that you might be seeking.

As you think more about what you like and how it fits into the fragrance world you will find it easier to select something that suits your aromatic style. Just remember, the more complex blends are more distinctive fragrances, and can provide your home with a unique aromatic atmosphere. Know what you like, but still venture out and try something new once in a while.

Jemetha Clark

http://www.thefifthsense.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jemetha_Clark
http://EzineArticles.com/?Selecting-Home-Fragrances:-How-to-Deconstruct-Aromas&id=254793

Friday, November 23, 2007

Thursday, November 22, 2007

The Holiday Gift List II

My favorite trade mag, Beauty Fashion, has just published another list of holiday gift sets. New fragrances as well as the classics are represented. Also, you'll find great bargains during this time of year. Many department and specialty stores offer discounts on single fragrances and sets. Some may even give you a free gift for thanking you for your perfume purchase. Make sure to ask the fragrance experts at your favorite department stores about these great incentives. Happy shopping!


For Women


Boucheron by Boucheron – Classic: 1.6 oz. EDT and 3.4 oz. Perfumed Body Cream. Retail Price: $74.00. Prestige: 3.3 oz. EDP, 6.6 oz. Body Lotion and Solid Perfume Compact. Retail Price: $155.00.


Curve Kicks by Liz Claiborne – 3.4 oz. EDT Spray, .33 oz. Perfume Roll, 6.7 oz. Body Lotion and 3.4 oz. Bath & Body Shower Gel. Retail Price: $58.00.


DKNY Delicious Night by Donna Karan – 1.7 oz. EDP Spray and 5 oz. Body Lotion. Retail Price: $55.00.


Michael Kors by Michael Kors (Linked to EDT edition) 100 ml EDP Spray and 7 oz. Glimmer Body Crème. Retail Price: $110.00.


Miss Boucheron by Boucheron – 1.6 oz. EDP and 3 oz. Body Milk. Retail Price: $83.00.


Opium by Yves Saint Laurent – 1.6 oz. EDT Natural Spray, 2.5 oz. Body Moisturizer and 2.5 oz. Luscious Shower Gel. Retail Price: $67.00.


Oscar by Oscar de la Renta – 3.3 oz. EDT Spray, 4 oz. Perfumed Body Lotion and 3 oz. Dusting Powder. Retail Price: $77.00.


Paris by Yves Saint Laurent – 2.5 oz. EDT Natural Spray, 2.5 oz. Body Moisturizer and 2.5 oz. Bath & Shower Gel. Retail Price: $71.00.


Stella by Stella McCartney – 3.3 oz. EDP Spray, 2.5 oz. Body Milk and Mini Candle. Retail Price: $85.00.


Stella in Two by Stella McCartney (Linked to Peony edition) 2.5 oz. EDT Spray and 1.6 oz. Moisturizing Body Milk. Retail Price: $73.00.


tommy girl by Tommy Hilfiger 3.4 oz. Cologne Spray and 3.4 oz. Smoothing Body Lotion. Retail Price: $52.00.


Unforgivable Woman by Sean John – 2.5 oz. Scent Spray and Trio of Lip Glosses. Retail Price: $55.00.


For Men


Aramis by Aramis – 3.4 oz. EDT, 4.1 oz. After Shave, 5.1 oz. Invigorating Body Shampoo, 3.4 oz. Advanced Moisturizing After Shave Balm and Soap on a Rope. Retail Price: $59.00.


Boucheron Pour Homme by Boucheron – 3.3 oz. EDP and 3.3 oz. After Shave Balm. Retail Price: $120.00.


Curve Kicks by Liz Claiborne 4.2 oz. Cologne Spray, .5 oz. Cologne Travel Spray, 4.2 oz. Skin Soother and 2.6 oz. Deodorant Retail Price: $55.00.


Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent – 3.3 oz. EDT Natural Spray and 3.3 oz. Shower Gel. Retail Price: $61.00.


Jaipur Pour Homme by Boucheron – 3.3 oz. EDP and 3.3 oz. After Shave Balm. Retail Price: $120.00.


L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent – 3.3 oz. EDT Natural Spray and 3.3 oz. Shower Gel. Retail Price: $68.00.


tommy boy by Tommy Hilfiger – 3.4 Cologne Spray and 3.4 oz. After Shave Balm. Retail Price: $49.50.


Unforgivable by Sean John – First Set: 2.5 oz. EDT and Deodorant Retail Price: $55.00; Second Set: 4.2 oz. EDT, 2 oz. After Shave Balm and 2 oz. Shower Gel. Retail Price: $ 75.00.


Z Zegna by Ermenegildo Zegna – First Set: 1.6 oz. EDT and 3.3 oz. After Shave Balm. Retail Price: $44.00. Second Set: 3.3 oz. EDT Spray and 2.6 oz. Deodorant Stick. Retail Price: $62.00.


Zegno Intenso by Ermenegildo Zegna 3.3 oz. EDT and 2.6 oz. Deodorant Stick. Retail Price: $63.00.


For Both


Andy Warhol by Bond No. 9 3.4 oz EDP (Warhol art sample on bottle). Retail Price: $230.00.


The Scent of Peace by Bond No. 9 – 3.4 oz. EDP Limited Edition Falcon (Dove-in-flight design traced in amethyst, white and opalescent Swavorski crystals on bottle). Retail Price: $470.00.



Where did I get my info?

Basenotes

Beauty Fashion

PR Newswire

Osmoz.com

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Sunday, November 18, 2007

A Video Profile: Carolina Herrera

Presenting a video profile about
Carolina Herrera,
Designing for the Elegant Lifestyle



Carolina Herrera Feature




Carolina Herrera -- Spring-Summer 2008 -- New York Fashion Week





212 Sexy Ad





Ad of the Week: A New Series

Once again, readers, I'm creating a new series entitled "Ad of the Week." After viewing many fragrance ads, I have concluded they are the most creative and sexiest advertisements that appear on TV and print. In this series, I'll be concentrating on TV commercials. I hope you enjoy this new series. My first commercial is for Alien by Thierry Mugler.

Alien TV Ad






Where did I get my info?
Youtube.com

Saturday, November 17, 2007

Reprint and Fragrance Education: Body Chemistry


How Individual Body Chemistry Influences A Fragrance

By Gregg Hall

Why is it that a fragrance you like on a friend never smells the same when you put it on yourself? The answer lies with your own body chemistry. Many factors can affect how a perfume will react with your skin. Choosing the right fragrance should be done with thoughtfulness and care.

As you search for the right perfume for you, you need to know the proper way to apply fragrance products. People should not be able to smell your scent from further than an arm's length away from your body. If they can, you are either using scent incorrectly or have chosen the wrong one for your personal body chemistry.

Fragrance products should be layered for the best and longest lasting scent. Spray eau de parfum on your skin from your feet up to your shoulders. Then apply your perfume just at the pulse points. Pulse points are places on your body where you can feel your heart beat. Most common and easy to find pulse points are the base of your throat, behind your ears and at your wrists. Behind your knees, in the crook of your elbow and inside your ankles are more points that are easy to find.

Fragrances begin to work with your body chemistry as soon as they're placed on your skin. As the product heats up from your body heat, the scent is released into the air. At this point, many factors have influenced how the product will smell including skin type, diet, medications and pigmentation of your skin. Even the environment and your mood can influence how the scent will react with your body chemistry.

Scents will be more powerful on someone with a high fat intake in their diet than on a person with a low fat intake. Dietary changes can change the way your usual perfume smells on you so keep that in mind the next time you start a diet. You may need to switch scents as your body chemistry adjusts. Your skin type also has a powerful effect on your fragrances. The oils of your skin hold the scent so people with oily skin need less fragrance and those with dryer skin types will need to apply scent more frequently. Even a medication change can have an effect on how your scents react to your skin.

When looking for the right scent you should always test the product directly on your skin. Since you now know that your body chemistry changes the way the fragrance smells, you should never base a decision on how the perfume smells in the bottle. Test no more than three products at a given time. Your nose and sense of smell will quickly become desensitized if you overdo it.

Since body chemistry is affected by so many factors and can change quickly, it is better to have several types to choose from. This way you can accommodate your body changes and still wear a perfume that you enjoy.


Gregg Hall is an author living with his beautiful wife and family in Navarre Beach, Florida. Find more about fragances as well as women's perfumes at http://www.womensperfumedirect.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gregg_Hall
http://EzineArticles.com/?How-Individual-Body-Chemistry-Influences-A-Fragrance&id=819762

Saturday, November 10, 2007

My Fragrance Voyage: Chanel and Pour Monsieur

I love Chanel. I have always admired this couture house's timeless and cutting-edge ideas. I'm especially in love with its fragrances – Coco Mademoiselle, Antaeus, Pour Monsieur Concentre, Allure Sensuelle for example. When I wear my Chanel fragrances, I know that I'm among an unique group of people, individuals with good taste and a very strong sense of style. So, let me tell you my Chanel story. It is a fragrance voyage.


My voyage began as a need, or rather as a desire. I wanted Chanel's Pour Monsieur, the concentrated version. I originally attempted to purchase it for what I thought was a good price from an established discount perfumery. This store sold a 3.4 oz bottle for $84. Unfortunately, after a few days submitting my online order, I was told that it was unavailable. Of course, I was disappointed. However, my quest for this cologne didn't end.


I decided to start my pilgrimage on a Saturday evening. I planned to purchase Pour Monsieur in Chanel's Bellagio location. I was decked out in my upscale shopping best: black Wild Pair dress boots, chic blue jeans and a casual white button-down shirt. Of course, I brought along my reddish Jack Spade wallet to hold my Platinum and upscale department stores, Neiman Marcus and Saks, credit cards. I stuffed my wallet in the left front pocket of my pants and started my voyage.


I drove a few miles and decided to stop at the Paris Hotel. I felt a need to evoke the feeling of France before the purchase. I parked my truck in its multi-level garage. I got out my vehicle, walked to the elevator and took it to the Casino/Hotel level. I felt I needed a little nourishment. I was in the mood for a seafood crepe, and it would give me a French feeling. So, I beelined to my favorite crepe stand that was across from the too expensive, too mediocre Paris Hotel buffet. After eating my favorite dish, I felt that I had enough inspiration and strength to visit the fashion temple at the Bellagio.


A few moments later, I found myself looking through the entrance of Chanel. I saw men and women dressed in fashionable black suits helping their clients. At this moment, self-doubt kicked in. I wondered if they, the salespeople, would judge me. Would they think I was a fake? A wannabe? An interloper? I decided to kill self-doubt and went into the boutique.


I avoided the stares of the patrons and their helpers (I believed I was only imagining their stares) and swiftly walked to the fragrance counter. I decided to sniff perfumes first, and if anyone would have asked why I was there, I would have told him or her that I was looking for a fragrance for my mother. So, I smelled Allure, Allure Sensuelle and Coco. I liked them all since they reminded me of an elegant and a beautiful older woman. As I was enjoying my fragrance high, a gorgeous middle-aged Asian woman with long black hair and wearing a tight, feminine black suit spotted me. She walked over and asked me if I needed help. Since I was embarrassed about being discovered while indulging in my little addiction, I told her no in a small and soft voice. I escaped her gaze and walked over to the men's fragrance counter.


I sniffed another Chanel cologne that I owned, Antaeus, and a few others, Egoiste and Allure Homme Sport. These two didn't appeal to me; they smelled too common. Suddenly, I spotted it. It was Pour Monsieur Concentre. I picked it up and slowly sprayed it on my bare, clean skin. I was in love. Its juice was very complex and refined.


According to osmoz.com, Pour Monsieur Concentre is “a rich composition exalted by profound, smooth notes.” Chanel.com mentions that it is “the understated fragrance for today's civilized man. The most potent, long-lasting form of men's fragrance. For an unmistakably masculine presence, day and night. Cooling, revitalizing spray. Spirited, masculine formula to spray all over the body.” This cologne harmoniously blends mandarin, petit grain and lavender as top notes. It later reveals spicy notes, cardamom and nutmeg, and finally ends with oak moss, vetiver and vanilla. Thus, Chanel has created a very unique and classic fragrance.


I grabbed the sample from the counter, walked over to the elegant Asian woman and asked how much it cost. She took it and went into a mysterious back room. In a few minutes, she reappeared and told me that it cost $52.50. OMG, I couldn't believe; Chanel had a bargain. (Well, for a Chanel product, this price is a bargain). I told her I wanted it. She smiled.


About 15 minutes later, I walked out of the Chanel boutique with my new purchase in a great looking shiny black bag with the Chanel logo emblazoned on it. As I was walking into another establishment, people started to look at me and my bag. Many people smiled, and some people stared, worshiping stares. They probably assumed that I was a well-off person that had bought a beautiful gift for my partner while we were both vacationing in Las Vegas. But, those stares had a deeper meaning. They were welcoming me into the world of high design and recognizing an established and influential design house. Of course, the house of Chanel deserves this admiration.


To view the full collection of Chanel fragrances, visit Chanel.com or osmoz.com.

Friday, November 9, 2007

Hot, Hot, Hot News -- Wal-mart and Coty


Whether you hate or love Wal-Mart, you'll have to admit that this mega-retailer does offer very good prices for those people on a limited budget. After all, it is the only place that I know that offers $4 drug prescriptions without health insurance. So, how does Wal-Mart relate to designer fragrances? You can buy designer fragrances for good prices at this store. Albeit, you won't find the latest creations there. Now let me relate this info to the post's title. The world's largest fragrance house, Coty, has just announced that their holiday gift sets are now available at the world's largest retailer, Wal-Mart. I guess these two superpowers have decided to join forces to make us spend our hard earned cash on Christmas gifts. Well, have fun shopping.

For a full list of Coty fragrances at Wal-Mart,
click here.

To download the fragrance gift guide by Coty and Wal-Mart,
click here.

Saturday, November 3, 2007

Remembering . . .

Dear Readers,

I've experienced one of the toughest weeks in my life. Unfortunately, the Creator summoned my very young first cousin, who is like a sister to me, to heaven about two weeks ago. Her wake and funeral were earlier this week. As the result of her homecoming, I could only post this message for this week.

I've shared many wonderful experiences with my cousin. She was the only relative to visit me when I lived in Buffalo, NY for about 18 months, and we loved to party together when we were both very young. Lastly, we shared many, many summers together. She was always a presence in my life and the lives of my brother and two sisters. I'll miss her so, so much.

So, the theme of this post is about pleasant memories. I'll show my favorite fragrance commericials that were popular in the 80's up to today. I'm sure she might have seen them and enjoyed them. This post is dedicated to my sister-cousin.


Take Care,

The Fragrance Man


Boss In Motion 2002



Calvin Klein CK One / CK Be Promo - "Altered States"



Calvin Klein "Eternity"



Calvin Klein "Obsession" Commercial



Chanel No. 5 -- Full Movie



Chanel - Share the Fantasy (1982) Commercial



Dolce and Gabbana - THE ONE comercial! FULL VERSION 60 SEC



Egoiste Chanel



Euphoria - Calvin Klein



Miss Dior Cherie Ad



Vanessa Paradis for Coco Chanel [1992]